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LaL Natural Skin Care Therapy By Lynda Humphreys
High-tech skin-care devices come home, but do they work? - Article
By Shari Roan
Los Angeles Times
TOM REESE / THE SEATTLE TIMES
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Laura Beard was flipping through a women's magazine when an advertisement caught her eye. It sounded simple enough: Aim a laser at individual blemishes — in the privacy of one's home — and the skin will clear up within a day or two.
The cost, $150, gave her only slight pause. If the device worked, it would save her the time and money she spent on acne treatments and dermatologist visits for herself and her daughter. "I have very dry skin, so I have to be careful about using acne remedies with benzoyl peroxide," says the 53-year-old Memphis woman. "This sounded so positive."
Seeing the light
With the evolution of laser technology, do-it-yourself personal care has entered a new realm. Consumers can now calm acne flare-ups, plump facial wrinkles and restore thinning hair with a variety of handheld devices. Others in development could treat superficial wounds, relieve pain and remove body hair.
"This field will grow because we have discovered how to channel the power of light and cause reactions in the skin and hair," says John Carullo, director of marketing for Sunetics, manufacturer of a hair-regrowth device. "It's quite an exciting industry, and it's on the verge of exploding."
Home hair and skin appliances using lasers or, in some cases, heat, can spare consumers from tiresome trips to the doctor's office and may be less costly, over time, than monthly in-office facials and hair treatments. But they won't work the same kind of magic as more high-powered tools. And some may even be a waste of money.
"It's a matter of degree," says Dr. Harold Brody, a clinical professor of dermatology at Emory University in Atlanta. "If people are trying to treat mild conditions, it may help. But if it's something severe, they will need the help of a dermatologist."
The popularity of in-home treatments mirrors the use of medical devices by physicians, says Dr. Wendy E. Roberts, a Rancho Mirage, Calif., dermatologist and assistant professor of medicine at Loma Linda University Medical Center. "I think eventually these could be effective for home use," she says. "But right now, there are questions about the efficacy of some of these systems. There's a lot of hype."
Keeping it cool
Consumers may have especially high expectations for home lasers.
Lasers release a special form of light in a single wavelength; by contrast, normal daylight consists of varying wavelengths. Hot lasers, the kind used by health professionals in the treatment of skin resurfacing and tattoo removal, are high-energy devices that cause heat damage to the skin, triggering a healing response.
Cool lasers are sometimes called low-level lasers or low-level light therapy. This type of laser doesn't damage tissue and is safe to use at home. They work by passing a beam of light through the skin to reach cells below the skin's surface and stimulate the body's natural healing processes. Energy produced by cool lasers appears to prompt the production of collagen and ATP (the energy source needed for cellular functions), promote blood circulation and boost the release of growth factors and the removal of waste products from cells.
"I sincerely doubt any of these things are so aggressive that they would produce side effects," says Brody. "But the effectiveness is going to be mild, too."
Cleared for takeoff
Consumers may think that Food and Drug Administration clearance means the devices work similarly to those used by doctors. But FDA clearance of this type means only that the manufacturer has submitted some data showing effectiveness for the device's intended purpose. Usually this means the device is based on similar, proven technology. Devices that do not have FDA clearance may only be proven as safe.
For example, devices to stimulate hair regrowth for balding men have been sold over-the-counter for years although manufacturers couldn't claim the devices helped regrow hair. The approval in February for the HairMax LaserComb was a milestone because the manufacturer produced scientific data to show the product had some effect in growing hair.
But not every light-based hair and skin device has received FDA clearance.
"Consumers need to ask enough questions to make sure what they are getting is truly efficacious," says Dr. Mark Solomon, a plastic surgeon in Philadelphia and spokesman for the American Society of Plastic Surgeons. "Over-the-counter devices don't hurt anybody, so you can sell them. But that doesn't mean they work."
The American Cancer Society has warned that low-level light therapy products in particular are being touted for conditions for which there is little or no proof that they help, such as pain relief, inflammation, smoking cessation, herpes, high blood pressure and migraines.
But the devices are becoming more visible in the marketplace. Sunetics is marketing its laser hair brush for $399. The firm also plans to sell the device with a removable head that can be replaced with one of four attachments (each costing $250) for use on acne, facial wrinkles, skin pigmentation and pain relief/wound healing. Each attachment contains a diode that produces a specific wavelength of light targeted to treat a particular condition, Carullo says.
Although there is some research supporting the effects of low-level laser therapy for hair regrowth and acne, there is little or no data to support other uses, Roberts says.
Laser beware
Consumers should seek a doctor's advice for persistent skin or hair problems, Brody says. A home device could lighten a skin lesion that is actually a melanoma skin cancer or remove scaling skin, the symptom of another type of skin cancer.
"Safety is paramount," he says. "You don't want to delay a diagnosis."
Beard says she uses an acne laser device called ThermaClear about once a week to speed up the removal of a blemish or two. However, her teenage daughter Kelli has chronic acne and will see a dermatologist on a regular basis.
"I think this device is for those of us who don't have a severe case but still don't want to have to deal with acne," Beard says.
Facial Skin Analysis
by Anne Thomas, Holistic Therapist
Fellow of International Council of Holistic Therapists
Normal Skin
It is very rare to find normal skin, and needs careful handling to maintain the balance between oil production and oil loss.
Normal skin has a clear fresh appearance, rarely develops blemishes and has an even pore size. There is no evidence of lining or flaking, indicating a well moisturised skin.
Normal skin is characterised by:
• Even texture and pores
• Feels firm to touch
• Texture is even
• Elasticity is good and skin is free from spots or blemishes
• Moisture content is good
• Colour is pink because of good circulation
• No evidence of lining or flaking
Dry Skin
Dry skin is caused by insufficient secretions of sebum, which is the skin's natural oil that keeps the skin soft and supple. Insufficient sebum causes the skin to become flaky and dry to the touch and it will feel dry and tight especially after washing.
Dry skin ages rapidly and can be identified by fine lines around the eyes, mouth and neck, which is caused by poor elasticity.
Dry skin is aggravated by dry atmospheric conditions, harsh weather, poor diet and harsh skin care routines.
Dry skin is characterised by:
• Small tight pores
• Flaky skin
• Redness, uneven pigmentation and visible dry patches
• Milia (a type of cyst)*
• Fine texture and skin looks thin
• Tendency to sensitivity shown by broken capillaries
• Signs of premature ageing are common, especially around eyes, mouth and neck.
>>> Skincare products suitable for dry and mature skin types >>>
Sensitive Skin
Sensitive skin can be caused by dry skin that has been either neglected or treated harshly, or reactions to foods or cosmetics.
Sensitive skin is characterised by:
• Redness on touch
• Broken capillaries, especially on the cheeks
• Feels tight and uncomfortable on application of products (in extreme cases burning and instant rashes are experienced)*
• High colouring and easily flushes for no apparent reason*
• Feels warm to touch
• Superficial flaking
• Black skins turn darker if they are sensitive
• Skin produces more sebum to protect, causing further oiliness/combination skin problems*
Avoid ingredients such as Beeswax, Wheatgerm Oil and Rose Hip Seed Oil - of course, it does depend on how much is in a product, but these ingredients can suffocate sensitive and reactive skins if they are in higher proportions.
>>>Unscented skincare products suitable for sensitive skin>>>
Oily Skin
Oily skin is caused by an over secretion of sebum, so anything that over stimulates the sebaceous glands (oil glands) should be avoided. For instance:
• Excessive cleansing or handling the skin
• Overheating
• Poor diet
Oily skin easily collects debris and in severe cases lead to cysts and pustules that are found in cases of acne vulgaris.
Oily skin is characterised by:
• Shiny patches
• Large open pores
• Coarse skin texture
• Sallow skin caused by sebum holding dead cells on surface
• Blocked pores leading to comedones (blackheads)
• Good skin tone caused by grease protecting skin from dryness
• High moisture content
If you also suffer with a few sensitivities, avoid ingredients such as Beeswax, Wheatgerm Oil and Rose Hip Seed Oil - of course, it does depend on how much is in a product, but these ingredients can suffocate oily, sensitive and reactive skins if they are in higher proportions.
>>>Skin Care items recommended for Oily Skin Types >>>
Mature Skin
Almost everyone over the age of 25 years has mature skin. As the skin ages it becomes dry because the glands are less active and it loses its elasticity.
The epidermis grows more slowly and so becomes thinner and facial contours change as muscle tone is lost.
Blood circulates more slowly, therefore nutrients are not as available so new skin cells are replenished less often.
In the same way, waste products are removed more slowly, therefore the skin can look puffy due to water retention.
Mature skin is characterised by:
• Puffiness under the skin
• Dark circles under the eyes
• Hair growth on upper lip and chin that darkens with age
>>> Skincare products suitable for dry and mature skin types >>>
Dehydrated Skin
Dehydration is caused by insufficient moisture in the skin and can affect any skin type.
It may be caused by illness, excessive sweating, drastic dieting, not drinking enough water or air conditioning.
Dehydrated skin is characterised by:
• Fine superficial lines
• Fine 'orange peel' effect
• Broken capillaries
• Flaking
>>>Quick Fixes for Dehydrated Skins >>>
Combination Skin
Combination skin is characterised by:
• A T-shape of oily skin that crosses the forehead and runs down the side of the nose and onto the chin
• The pores within the T zone are larger than elsewhere on the face
• A sheen across the forehead, on the sides of the nose and on the chin
• A tendency to congestion of the pores within the T zone
• The skin outside the T zone may be normal or dry
If you also suffer with sensitivities, avoid ingredients such as Beeswax, Wheatgerm Oil and Rose Hip Seed Oil - of course, it does depend on how much is in a product, but these ingredients can suffocate sensitive and reactive skins if they are in higher proportions.
A combination skin type is a dilemma! I thought it was just me! The most contact us emails we receive daily are related to combination skin problems. 'Products work one day, then cause problems the next...?' No, apparently us combination skin types (and also throw in some sensitivities too - just to make it a bit more of a challenge) is complicated. The only way around combination skin types is to go with the flow - this means that combination skin types will probably need around 2 to 3 skincare routines dotted around the month, juggling with two cleansers and perhaps a reliable skin toner or two with perhaps 2 to 3 different moisturisers (this is for predominantly females, due to hormone fluctuations).
The type of skin care routine that will suit you one day will cause you problems for another. Basically, it's like this... if you wake up in the morning and use the same products you used the day before (which you thought were fantastic and can't wait to try them again!!!) and you experience problems today*, this is a combination skin type... (*of course, there are occasions when this may be an allergy forming). I know I know, how can you tell? Well, I can't promise you its easy, because its not, you need loads and loads of patience to understand what your skin is trying to tell you what it wants!
The problem is that most of us think that we should have one skincare routine, and that should be it... this works for most skin types - but not for combination skins, I am so sorry to say... I have highlighted lots and lots of possible skincare products for this most complicated and frustrating skin type... you may make some mistakes to begin with, but please bear with the experimenting. By all means, please contact me if you need any further advice before purchasing products.
To help you along the way, I am currently adding a few extra notes below each product, hopefully, you will find these helpful? Please do let me know your feedback, as there are a lot of us out there!
>>> Combination Skin Care Products >>>
However, if your sensitivities are on the rampage, even though you have combination tendencies, your sensitive skin type needs to be taken care of as a priority, please see >>> Unscented Products >>> for skin tlc.
Copyright Anne Thomas 2005
* Added notes by Angie Coleman, There Must Be a Better Way
